Stories from the Balkans

Dubrovnik’s rooftops

From above, Dubrovnik looks perfect. Yet its gleaming roofs also speak of war, reconstruction and the question of what beauty conceals.

Read article

Dubrovnik · 3 min

Dubrovnik without the frustration

Dubrovnik is crowded, hot and expensive — yet it can still be a highlight of a journey if the timing, breaks and expectations are right.

Read article

Dubrovnik · 9 min

The search is our way

A white compressor cool box becomes the starting point for a question: do we really need to find one way of travelling that is ours — or is searching already our way?

Read article

Balkan road trip · 6 min

A bridge around borders

The Pelješac Bridge is a beautiful structure. But it also tells of how old borders, access to the sea and political compromises still shape a journey today.

Read article

Pelješac / Neum · 5 min

Plitvice in practice

From the outset, Plitvice Lakes was meant to be a highlight of our journey. It exceeded even those expectations. A little preparation and good timing make the visit better still.

Read article

Plitvice Lakes · 5 min

A German for Bosnia and Herzegovina

We expected a visibly divided city. Instead, we found a lively Mostar — and, of all places, encountered a political arrangement unlike any other in Europe.

Read article

Mostar · 4 min

Ston

Some places seem to be merely on the way. Sometimes that is precisely why it pays not to leave them for later.

Read article

Ston · 2 min

Our last kuna

How our last kuna became €69.02 — and why a detour to Zagreb was worth it.

Read article

Zagreb · 3 min

Kotor and the cruise passengers

A bay whose scale only becomes clear with a large ship in it. An old town less crowded than expected. And the realisation that we are part of this tourism ourselves.

Read article

Kotor · 7 min