From the outset, Plitvice Lakes was one of the highlights of this journey for us. Our expectations were correspondingly high.
In the end, it exceeded even those.
What we learnt: organisation makes a difference. With the right timing, an already wonderful day becomes an extraordinary one.
In brief
01 – Stay nearby.
02 – Book early and plan your route.
03 – Get into the park early.
04 – Plan for food, drinks and toilets.
05 – Do not skip Rastoke.
06 – Visit the viewpoint outside the park.
Stay nearby
Plitvice is far from the classic holiday destinations on the coast. That is precisely why we would now definitely spend at least one night nearby.
The real gain is not the shorter drive. It is the first few hours of the day. You start relaxed, avoid the morning arrival traffic and can enter the park while many others are still on their way.
Choose the right entrance and route
Our host recommended a clear strategy:
An early time slot at Entrance 2, the panoramic shuttle up to the upper lakes, then a relaxed downhill walk through the park on Route H.
We chose differently. Because we wanted to photograph the big waterfall as early as possible, we started at Entrance 1. That worked well.
Looking back, though, we would follow our host’s advice.
The big waterfall is impressive, but the real strength of Plitvice Lakes lies in the whole: turquoise lakes, countless waterfalls, wooden walkways and constantly changing perspectives. The upper lakes particularly delighted us.
There is a practical advantage too: many visitors begin at Entrance 1. Starting at Entrance 2 and walking downhill often makes for a much more relaxed passage through the park.
Also important:
- Reserve tickets online as early as possible.
- The park uses fixed entry times.
- The signposted routes operate as a one-way system. This works wonderfully, but requires some planning.
Get into the park early
We had booked the first time slot, at seven in the morning. There was exactly one visitor ahead of us.
A local out with his dog before the official opening time.
Later, the picture changed. Not chaotic. But busier.
The early hours offer not only the greatest calm, but also the loveliest light.
Food, drinks and toilets
We had underestimated this beforehand. There are only a few larger areas in the park with restaurants, picnic spots and toilets:
- at the panoramic shuttle station,
- at the boat landing between the upper and lower lakes,
- and at the two entrances.
Between them, the routes run almost entirely along wooden walkways and narrow paths. If you suddenly get hungry or urgently need a toilet, you may still have quite a way to walk.
It pays, then, to plan food, drinks and breaks deliberately.
Rastoke
If you are travelling in the region anyway, do visit Rastoke. The little village with its historic mills, waterways and wooden bridges is no substitute for Plitvice. But it makes a wonderful beginning or ending.
The best photographs
For photographers, Plitvice Lakes is a dream.
Our most important lessons:
- Use a polarising filter.
- Choose low ISO settings and relatively small apertures.
- Leave the tripod behind — the walkways vibrate anyway.
Bonus: the viewpoint outside the park
Our host gave us another tip we would probably never have discovered ourselves. Outside the national park proper is a viewpoint with a spectacular view of the big waterfall and the gorge.
If you have a little time the following morning, make room for this short detour. The light is best here before noon. There is parking before the wooden bridge; then, on the opposite side — still before the bridge, and actually past the brink of the big waterfall — a short walk through the woods leads to the viewing platform.
The viewpoint reveals Plitvice Lakes from an entirely different perspective, as in the photograph above.
What we would do differently
Next time, we would probably follow our host’s advice: start at Entrance 2, take the panoramic shuttle to the upper lakes and then follow Route H through the park.
Things we would do again
We would stay nearby again. We would book the earliest time slot again. We would visit Rastoke again. We would pack a polarising filter again.
Because Plitvice Lakes is one of the most impressive landscapes we experienced on this journey. With a little preparation, this natural wonder can be remarkably relaxing to explore.