Journey / Route

Two weeks by the beach. Again and again.

A personal atlas for two weeks at a very familiar campsite

Places that belong

Our Cavallino atlas

Editorial map of the Venice Lagoon from Chioggia to Lido di Jesolo, with marked places and an enlarged detail of Union Lido.
The Venice Lagoon between Chioggia and Lido di Jesolo — with a closer look at Union Lido.Map sources: © OpenStreetMap contributorsRegione del Veneto geoportalAdditional local and campsite information: Union Lido
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Editorial map of the Venice Lagoon from Chioggia to Lido di Jesolo, with marked places around Venice and Union Lido.
The Venice Lagoon between Chioggia and Lido di Jesolo.Map sources: © OpenStreetMap contributorsRegione del Veneto geoportal
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Detailed map of Union Lido and its immediate surroundings, with marked facilities and places we have visited.
Union Lido and its immediate surroundings in detail.Map source: © OpenStreetMap contributorsAdditional local and campsite information: Union Lido
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01

Getting there

Towing a caravan means travelling slowly anyway. So we often take the smaller roads from the outset: through the Felbertauern Tunnel, across the Dolomites and then straight down from Belluno to Cavallino. It is about 100 kilometres shorter than taking the Tauern or Brenner motorway, the scenery is a dream and there are almost never any traffic jams, except around Munich. But whenever and whichever way we travel, it always takes us ten hours. With breaks. And even for those breaks, we already have favourite places.

A view of Lake Landro and the Dolomites.
Lake Landro: the Dolomites deserve holidays of their own, but they are wonderful even as a stop along the way.

Loacker

No longer a hidden gem

Loacker in Heinfels is always busy. Cyclists on the Puster Valley cycle route, holidaymakers and people passing through like us meet here for speciality coffees, patisserie and, of course, wafers from the factory shop. All that, and an excellent car park, have made it a traditional stop for us.

A giant red Loacker wafer packet in front of a mountain landscape in Heinfels.
Loacker in Heinfels: a traditional stop with wafers, coffee and mountain views.

Lake Landro (Dürrensee)

A picnic with mountain views

Lake Landro is a stop that turns a long drive into something else. On the way south, finding a parking space for the car and caravan can be difficult. On the way home, it is usually easier because we are already on the right side of the road. Park the caravan, get the food out, look at the mountains. Nothing more is needed. The café serves excellent apple strudel.

A white car with a caravan and bicycles on the roof beside Lake Landro, with the Dolomites behind.
Car and caravan at Lake Landro: a break with a panorama.

The first Italian motorway coffee

From here, it is almost straight south

Almost nowhere does espresso or cappuccino taste better than at an Italian motorway service station. Ponte nelle Alpi Ovest is our first — or last — opportunity when we take the route through the Dolomites. And we make use of it.

The counter of an Italian motorway service station with an espresso machine and a display of goods.
The first Italian motorway coffee is part of getting there for us.

Brenner Pass

Italy, here we are

Sometimes we travel to Cavallino over the Brenner Pass. We take this route all the more often when heading elsewhere in Italy. And although we know we are still in South Tyrol, this is where Italy begins for us. We often make a brief stop at the outlet. A quick wander, a good coffee and on we go.

02

Around Cavallino and in the lagoon

Our holiday does not take place only on the campsite. The peninsula, the lagoon and Venice belong to it too — not as a compulsory programme, but as a familiar range of possibilities to choose from according to the weather, our mood and how we feel that day.

A narrow path through the lagoon landscape near Lio Piccolo.
Just a few kilometres from the campsite, everything becomes quiet.
01

Cavallino

Our practical centre beyond the campsite

Cavallino is not an excursion destination for us, although the square around the church by the water has become prettier every year. But it is a fixed part of our holiday. A big shop at Alì: eight six-packs of water, fifteen bottles of Tourtel, a bottle of Pinot Grigio, veal escalopes, Grana Padano, Gran Biscotto, Crudo di Parma, plenty of fresh fruit and vegetables, sometimes ten packets of Vialone rice or pasta to take home. Sometimes pizza by the roundabout with friends. The Tuesday market is not really our thing.

Italian sausage and ham specialities in a refrigerated display counter.
Shopping is part of holiday life — the big shop in Cavallino, top-ups on the campsite.

Vianello

Breakfast outside the holiday bubble

At Vianello, campers sit alongside locals, tradespeople, families and people on their way to work. Over coffee and brioche. It is not a spectacular place. But it is one where we love to sit for half an hour and watch the morning begin in Italy.

02

Lido di Jesolo

Shopping paradise and seafront promenade

Lido di Jesolo is the Adriatic cliché: a seafront promenade stretching for kilometres, with one sunlounger beside the next. Parallel to it runs the strip of shops and restaurants. An unbelievable amount of tourist merchandise. ‘Tat’ is not the wrong word. We still go there sometimes — first, to immerse ourselves in the cliché, and second, because among it all there are one or two shops we want to browse. If the weather looks gloomy, though, a drive that normally takes twenty minutes can turn into an odyssey.

McArthurGlen Outlet in Noventa di Piave

Outlet shopping, Italian-style

We have an outlet on our doorstep at home. Even so, we almost always make one trip to Noventa di Piave. The outlet here does have an Italian touch. Besides, the Calzedonia/Intimissimi/Tezenis outlet is on the other side of the roundabout. We try to arrive when it opens at ten. Later, even on ordinary days, the car park fills quickly and getting out takes time. The best place to park is at Calzedonia anyway. From there, it is usually quicker to get away again.

Punta Sabbioni

Across the water to Venice

When the boat leaves Punta Sabbioni, you are somehow already in Venice. Not only because the boats are part of Venetian public transport. Above all, because you are travelling across water — and ultimately, that is what makes Venice for us. The last part of the crossing is spectacular every time. You pass right through the bustle on the water and arrive very close to St Mark's Square. That is a different experience from leaving the car in a multi-storey car park by the bridge into Venice.

Faro di Punta Sabbioni

Where the cruise ships used to pass

The lighthouse at Punta Sabbioni marks the entrance from the open sea to the Venice Lagoon. In the past, you could watch cruise ships at close quarters here in the morning and evening on their way to and from Venice. We are glad those ships no longer sail right through the canals. Even so, Chiosco del Faro is a perfect place to sit with a hot caffeinated drink and watch life on the beach and around the lighthouse.

The Punta Sabbioni lighthouse at the end of a breakwater facing the open sea.
Faro di Punta Sabbioni: lagoon entrance, beach and a place to watch.

Marina di Venezia Camping Village

The other big campsite

The ‘Venezia’ is Union Lido's large counterpart on the coastal strip east of Venice. Both campsites have their committed fans. You often hear: ‘We tried the other one, but we prefer it here.’ Perhaps you simply settle on the campsite where you started, or where you went as a child. After all, this is a kind of holiday on which you do not always have to discover something new.

Lio Piccolo

Flamingos instead of holiday bustle

Take the new cycle path towards Punta Sabbioni. After Treporti, turn right over the bridge, then right again before the cemetery and, a little further on, left out into the lagoon, past fields, stretches of water and narrow paths. With luck, you will see pink flamingos standing in the shallows. Lio Piccolo is tiny, as its name suggests. A little further on, the road ends at a restaurant. Beyond that, a boat is about your only option. The contrast with the nearby campsite is so great that it is hard to believe how little distance lies between them.

Flamingos standing in the sparkling shallows of the lagoon near Lio Piccolo.
With luck, flamingos will be standing in the shallow water beside the path.
03

Venice

Our remarkable neighbour

You almost forget that one of the world's most extraordinary cities is practically around the corner when you are living on the campsite. But as soon as the boat docks at San Zaccaria, you feel again why the whole world comes here. After so many visits, we no longer have to ‘do’ Venice. We can cross over for an exhibition, a vaporetto ride along the canals, a church, a long walk or dinner. That freedom changes the way we see it: the city becomes less an item on an itinerary and more a neighbour — an exceptionally remarkable one, admittedly.

04

Lido di Venezia and Pellestrina

Through the lagoon by bicycle

Bicycle, ferry, bicycle again. The route across the Lido and onwards to Pellestrina, perhaps even as far as Chioggia, is one of those excursions where getting around is already the story. Sea and lagoon remain close almost throughout, the villages become smaller and Venice feels very near and very far away at the same time. Perhaps our favourite cycle ride in the area. Only the journey back can become complicated.

03

At Union Lido

Here, distances become shorter. The pitch, the beach, the pools, the pizzeria, the beach bar and the wash block are close together. After twenty-five years, some of these places hold more stories than sights.

Sunrise over the still-empty beach at Union Lido.
Early in the morning, the beach belongs almost entirely to the rising sun.
05

Our pitch behind the wall

The centre of the world for two weeks

Caravan, awning, bicycles, cables, shoes, towels and sand. The basic equipment changes less than the people living among it. Once, two adults, three small children and inflatables in every shape and size. Later, teenagers with tents and paths of their own. These days, we usually come as a couple. But even our now grown-up children sometimes still give in to the longing to return.

A white car and caravan with an erected awning on a tree-lined pitch at Union Lido.
Caravan and awning: for two weeks, the pitch becomes our centre.
06

The beach

Sand. Lots of sand.

The water is clearer elsewhere. But the beach here is enormous. From the lighthouse at Punta Sabbioni to the lighthouse at Cavallino, there are almost fifteen kilometres of beach. Here it is fifty to a hundred metres wide. Around 1.2 kilometres of it lie in front of Union Lido. Along its entire length, stretches reached through campsites alternate with sections easily reached by public access paths, areas with parasols and sunloungers for hire, beach kiosks and sometimes playgrounds. Above all, though, there is sand. Lots of sand. With children, it is ideal, precisely because of the sand and the very gentle slope into the water. But even as a couple, it is lovely, because even in high season you can find places further back where you do not feel surrounded. This is summer holiday for us.

Colourful inflatable animals standing in the shallow water on the beach at Union Lido.
Beach sellers with inflatable animals, beach towels, kites or sunglasses are part of life here too.

Lido 55

Coffee and the occasional Aperol Spritz on the beach

The reliable answer to the question of whether you really have to walk far for a coffee. You do not. Lido 55 is about fifty metres from our beach blanket. A caffè in the morning, a cappuccino in the afternoon, sometimes an aperitivo too.

Lido 55 beach bar with parasols and seating in the sand.
Lido 55: coffee and an aperitivo just a few steps from the beach blanket.

Pizza&Sapori

Pizza as a family ritual

It is quite possible to find twenty people ahead of you in the queue to order takeaway pizza here. The same twenty people then wait ahead of you for their pizzas to be ready. You queue anyway. Pizza from here on arrival day and on the evening before we leave has become a ritual. And at some point in between too.

Several pizza makers preparing pizzas in the open kitchen at Pizza&Sapori.
Pizza&Sapori: at the beginning, at the end and almost always somewhere in between.

Laguna, Mare and Morbidosi

For the children

In our memories, pools, slides and bouncy castles marked different stages of the children's development. For parents, that occasionally meant long spells sitting on the sidelines. Especially at Morbidosi: on one of far too few benches, bare feet on the squeaky artificial grass, and every thirty minutes looking for the children who had disappeared into the maze of bouncy castles. For children, simple is sometimes better than spectacular. Perhaps that is why the ‘old’ Mare, with its little rubber hills, slides and current channel, remains the fondest memory too.

A path beside Aqua Park Laguna, with water slides behind a plant-covered wall.
Laguna, Mare and Morbidosi mark different phases of our family holidays.

Marino Wellness&Spa

A spa in summer

When the ‘Marino Club’ opened, we wondered what a spa was doing on a campsite devoted to sun and sand — only to become regular visitors later. In earlier years, if the weather forecast was not particularly good, we were among the first at the door on family mornings because admission numbers are limited. Inside, the children would sometimes romp in the algae and salt pools in a distinctly un-spa-like manner. These days, we tend to prefer the quieter times. Or one of the massages, which feel good whatever the weather.

Mana Surf&Yoga

Michi

To say that Michi has a knack for teaching windsurfing would be a gross understatement. Adult or child: fifteen minutes of basics on the sand, and a few minutes later you are standing on the board in the water — and starting to windsurf. Afterwards, there are high-fives for everyone and, after seven hours, a windsurfing certificate. And you can be fairly sure of being greeted by your first name on your next holiday.

Windsurfing instructor Michi smiling on the beach and making the shaka sign.
Michi: windsurfing instructor, motivator and a familiar face every time we return.

Il Borgo

Burgers in the Dog Camp

For a while, the dog area caused quite a stir at Union Lido. Among us too. Today, our favourite restaurant is there. During the day, we sometimes stop by the pool and watch the dogs swimming. In the evening, we sit beneath the pergolas and eat burgers. That is how things can change.

A reservation sign with Gerhard's name on a decorated table at Il Borgo.
Il Borgo: from the dog area to a restaurant we love to visit.

Bar da Italo

Cocktails and unwinding

For some time now, Union Lido has been helping to manage the neighbouring campsite, Italy. It is also home to the beach bar with what we find the loveliest evening atmosphere. You sit closer to the sea than at the other bars. A good place for a sundowner.

Looking back

What remains special after twenty-five years

Not a single place. More the combination: caravan, beach, bicycles, coffee, Venice, familiar faces — and the freedom not to do any of it today.

What changes

Who sits outside the caravan. What the children do. What each bar is called. Where we shop. What we bring. And yet we recognise this holiday immediately.

Why we will probably keep coming back

Because here, we no longer have to work out how to be on holiday.